Part two of “Spergin About 40k Armies”

by frest - December 28th, 2009

Part one of this article can be found Here.

Welcome back to my brief survey of 40k in the 5th edition of the grim dark far future.  I think I got a little long in the tooth last time, since Space Marines are so fundamental to the setting. It was also pretty boring for anyone that isn’t totally in <3 ruv wif spaze mareenz <3 <3

So WIFOUT FURVHER ADO, here be da Orkz!!!

warhammer_Ork_by_urukhai777

Orkz are built for two things:  rolling lots of dice and doing random-ass crazy bullshit. Both of these fit in great with 5th edition, making Orks fairly strong regardless of army composition type (mechanized or footslogging). Remember last time when I said that it’s often best to just flood the opponent with wounds and let probability sort things out? There is nothing quite like seeing a half-blind Ork, with a rusty gun held together by chewing gum and twine, mowing down the Emperor’s Finest. With only a few truly terrible choices in their army book, you can see why they say green is best.

In general, Orks have terrible ballistic skill (but can assault after shooting with almost every gun they have) and have a high number of basic attacks. They are weak against AV14, have no psyker defense, and their individual leadership is pretty shitty. This is mitigated by the Mob Rule ability which allows them to substitute the number of models in a squad for their LD value and makes them fearless if they have 11 or more models.

orkThey have one of the most efficient basic infantry units in the game.  Ork Boyz are tough, cheap, and have a lot of basic attacks. They can only do one thing but they damn do it well: make you roll lots of dice.  With furious charge, Mob Rule, and the option to take slugga/choppa for EVEN MORE ATTACKS or Shoota for a decent number of Str 4 shots, the Ork Boy is a pretty sweet deal.

Nobz deserve special mention because they are a particularly feared sight on the battlefield, and rightly so. They’re stronger, faster, and with 2 wounds even tougher than the average Boy, and can take a frightening range of wargear options. Aside from the usual bosspole, klaws and ‘eavy armor, they can get a warbanner for higher WS, an invulnerable save, feel no pain, or even Warbikes for increased movement and the constant 4+ cover save. The number of options means a Nob Mob has an easy time making unique models, which means that spreading wounds around is cake.

Recalling back to the previous article and the changes to wound allocation, this means that your Nobs can take a SHITLOAD of abuse before giving up the ghost. Each Nob has two wounds, you can easily give them unique wargear, and thus you can often allocate a separate wound to every Nob before you have to take a casualty. They are vulnerable to instant-death from Str 8, attacks that bypass Feel No Pain, pieplates, and abilities that target morale, because the Mob is capped at 10 Nobz max (although HQs can bring this to 11 and Fearless, at least until the first casualty. Bosspoles help!). They excel at krumping just about EVERYTHING.
Read the rest of this entry »

Step By Step Space Marine Drop Pod

by Pagan - September 23rd, 2009

I know a lot of people have had problems wih the Space Marine Drop Pod, so I figured I’d do a step by step showing how I made mine. This tutorial will also demonstrate some different techniques for painting, and show off the advantages of the airbrush.

Part of what makes this project tricky is the 3 color Ice Camo that goes on all the vehicles of this army. It starts with a white base coat, then true blue,

then the final coat is GW’s Ice Blue. So, to keep things simple, I primed white.

Then I arranged the primed pieces and laid down strips of silly putty.

The great thing about the silly putty is it molds itself into all the cracks and crevices of the model. Masking tape is great for sharp crisp lines on relatively flat, featureless surfaces, but it doesn’t work at all on tanks or models with a lot of 3D detail. The putty is perfect, because it sinks into all the cracks by itself.

I sprayed on the next coat of color.

then laid down more silly putty.

And now the final color.

The tricky part about using the silly putty is that paint never dries on it. Since the putty has a lot of moisture, it acts almost like a wet pallette. So you’ve got to be careful when removing the putty. If you smear it or roll it, you’ll end up transferring paint onto a different part of the model. I find that using only one hand to touch the putty and the other hand to hold the pieces works great; then just make sure to lift the putty straight up into the air.

All done with the base coat!

Next, I wanted to do hazard stripes on the inside of the ramps. I had already sprayed the outer edges with Ice Blue, so I used masking tape to cover that part up.

Then another layer of white was applied. Since yellow was going to be the first layer, I wanted a solid base to go under it. Spraying yellow is easier than painting yellow, but not by a whole lot.

With the yellow sprayed, I then washed the ramps in Gryphonne Sepia, and carefully applied masking tape.

Then some black paint via the airbrush…

Once the tape is removed, it looks great!

For the harnesses and the engine, it was a simple matter of spraying metallic silver, then spraying on a wash of Badab black.

I also painted metallic gold onto the eagles and the details lining the fins, and metallic silver onto the grates inside the floor.

After this, it was a pretty simple matter of highlighting and shading. I shaded with Badab Black ink and a fine brush. This shot shows the basic ink; I then went back with Ice Blue to keep the shading thin and even.

One trick I’ve found that works very well is to use colored pencils to apply the highlighting or hardlining to models. A brush is great for sharp angles, 90 degrees or more, but for more shallow angles, it’s hard to apply a thin enough line. The colored pencil does it perfectly, every time. The downside is that the colored pencil is easy to rub off, so be careful when handling the model.

Now I’ve got all the pieces painted!

I won’t lie, assembling this thing was a bitch. I found the easiest way to do it was by putting a few of the fins on, and the turbine, then attaching the other fins one piece at a time. Be patient and let glue dry between each piece, otherwise everytime you move one piece, you’ll mess up the others.

The airbrush made this a very easy project to paint. I cut out the pieces from the sprue on a Friday. primed everything Friday night, and started painting on Saturday. I was finished on Tuesday. Hopefully this helps out some other modellers, and I’ll be happy to answer questions in the comments.

Making cardboard buildings

by enri - September 16th, 2009

There just isn’t enough terrain making articles or guides online, I sometimes feel like the whole hobby has been swamped by store bought kits and whilst they’re gorgeous and do have their uses, I can’t help but feel loads of you gamer types are being cheated out of the incredibly wholesome hobby that is terrain making. It’s like spending a Sunday afternoon baking cakes but better.

My main goal is to help those who don’t think that they’re capable of making terrain by showing them how easy it can be by using just a handful of materials and tools that should be accessible to everyone. I’ll be entertaining more exotic tools and crazy techniques with which to hurt yourself at a later date but my first bunch of articles will most likely concentrate on getting decent results with basic techniques and materials so everyone has a chance to have a play.

If you’ve been there, seen it, done it etc. then please hang around anyway, I’d love your thoughts and feedback.

Why?!

Why make your own terrain? A few reasons spring to mind:

  1. It’s satisfying! – when was the last time you actually made something from scratch?
  2. It’s very green – welcome to the dark side of recycling.
  3. It’s cheap! – the main driving factor for most people.

Getting Started

Tools

  • sharp modelling knife
  • ruler
  • wood glue
  • pencil

Materials

  • cereal packet card!

Today we’re going to make something out of… wait for it… cereal packet card! Hopefully you’re a god fearing cereal eater like the rest of us and can lay your hands on some kind of thin card, it doesn’t necessarily have to be cereal packet card but just any kind of thin card disguised as packaging will do. As long as it’s not embossed then it’s all good, you have no idea how out of place the Kellogs logo looks in the 41st millennium.

You’ll see that you don’t really need a lot; something sharp, something straight, something sticky and something pencily. Oh and something materialy.

For this article, I’m going to keep it simple and make a simple fantasy house / hut / call it whatever you will. It will have 4 walls, a roof, a door and maybe a window if the occupants are lucky and I’m going to make it using nothing but cereal packet card and wood glue.

Working with card, and indeed any other sheet material, is simply a case of ‘flattening’ your design out, take a look at this and try and work out what the hell it is:

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Four walls? check… Roof? check… That’s the basic plans for my fantasy house. Let’s make that template a little more workable and less basic:

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I’ve added tabs to the areas that will need them and I’ve also chopped the 4 walls into two seperate sections with 2 walls apiece. This is just to make it easier in transferring the design on to the card (as not many cereal packets will stretch to fitting all four walls on in one big long strip)

So if you’re still following me then you should have something that looks similar to the above, it doesn’t have to be a perfect replica, just a basic shape will do with some basic features.

The next step

Now, if you drew your plan straight onto your cereal packet card then bravo, you can skip the next step you clever little bean.. but if you didn’t, just tape the plan on to your cereal packet card, take a pin and poke a hole through the plan AND the card at the end of every straight line (what? no straight lines? use a ruler you tool) – once you’ve done that, simply connect the dots and et voila! As if by magic, your building plan has been transferred to the cereal packet card! It should look something like this:

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Now cut that shit out. Use a ruler (preferably metal, plastic rulers have a tendency to enjoy being cut by sharp blades) and a sharp knife and cut your walls and roof out, be sure to cut out any windows and doors as well. We’ll sort them out when it comes to detailing.

You should have something looking like this on your desk:

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The more astute of you will notice the ‘A4′ on my cutting board and will then be questioning the scale of this building, yes, I made it a bit smaller than I normally would, mostly for speed but everything is still applicable, even at a larger size.

Before you go any further, it’s worth taking the time to score the card where it will be bent. It’s always best to score on the outside of the bend, i.e. on the side that will be facing outwards. Take your ruler and a knife and gently run the blade across the card, basically make a very slight cut into the card but not through it.

Getting sticky

Next up, the easy bit. Wood glue is perfect. I’ve found it best if you put wood glue on both sides to be joined, wipe most of it away with a scrap of card so that you’re left with a thin coat of glue and then slap them together. They should grip together pretty firmly right from the word go but it’s still best to leave it to cure overnight. Once you’ve gotten everything glued together then it should look something like this:

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If it doesn’t, you went wrong somewhere. Go back to the start and try again.

If it does, congratulations! You’ve taken your first step into terrain making. It’s all down hill from here. If you’re worried that it looks a bit like a few sheets of cardboard glued together at the moment then that’s ok… because that’s what it is. I’ll cover detailing with cereal packet card in the next article… here’s a sneak peek. Oooh thrilling stuff.

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Terrain by Pagan

by Pagan - September 15th, 2009

I use many different materials to build buildings. I base them one 1/4″ MDF board cut into different sizes, but the buildings themselves can be made out of many things.

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I got this thick plasticard from another warham; I think it’s 1/8 or 1/16th of an inch thick. It’s very sturdy, but also hard to cut.

Foamcore is the standard for lots of people. It’s relatively easy to cut, but it can be flimsy and it tends to warp.

The 1/2″ pink insulation foam is great because you can carve lots of stuff into it, and cut it into lots of shapes. The downside is it has almost no structural strength, and it dulls knives FAST.

Finally, I use .030″ plasticard for surface details. I’m fortunate enough to live nearby a plant that manufactures it, so I get huge sheets for next to nothing.

The big metal ruler has a felt backing, which is important to keep it from slipping when making cuts. The transparent T-square helps keep lines straight, and the sharpie marker will write on just about any surface.

Clothespins make great impromptu clamps while waiting for glue to dry. The elmer’s white glue is great for most surfaces, but if I’m bonding plastic to plastic I use Methyl Ethyl Ketone. The rubber cement comes in handy a lot, too.

Finally, I’ve been using a utility knife a lot recently. The blades are cheap and pretty durable, which helps make it better than the standard X acto knife.

Next, I’m going to go over the steps I take to cut out a building. This is probably very basic for anyone else who does terrain, but I’m including it for complete newbies. Accuracy is important, and I also like to minimize the various steps I take. Trying to cut out each piece seperately takes forever, and you tend to end up with different sized pieces. This makes assembly difficult. I guess if you’re building Ork stuff that’s fine, but I’m fond of my imperial buildings.

Once you’ve figured out the measurements of your building, you’re going to add them together like the picture shows. This way, when we cut, we’ll end up with all our pieces the same size. Don’t cut yet, though, just mark the dimensions on the foamcore.

2

The next step is to mark out our windows and doors. Since all the big pieces are still lined up, this will make sure that everything lines up. In a one story building, it’s not a huge deal, but if you’re doing several stories it will look better if everything lines up.

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After you’ve marked all the doors and windows, all the lines can get confusing. I like to use different colors of pen to mark things so I don’t cut the wrong thing, and I mark the pieces to be removed with an X.

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To minimize the time spent cutting, cut all the way across one line first, making sure to skip the spaces in between. Be careful at this point, but it’s not the end of the world if you end up with a window that’s double width every now and then.

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Once you’ve got all the doors and windows removed, you can cut out the big pieces. Again, it’s much easier to do a few big long cuts. I do the longest big cuts first, then the shorter cuts last.

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Here is a building I’ve been working on this week. The base is made from foamcore, the bricks and door are from a cut up cereal box. I used spackle on the edges to hide the bare foam.

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Next, the base. The base is built from a lot of different parts. I started with a base of MDF board, 12 x 6 inches. I had a big piece of foam about the same size, from some kinda packaging, so I glued that on top. Then I realized I needed a way for models to get up and down, so I built the ramp and glued that onto the side. I had originally planned on stairs, but didn’t have enough room.

One of the big problems with using foam is even after you paint it, it just looks like foam you slapped paint on. The solution is to cover the surface with something. Anything. You can use sand, spackle, paper mache, anything. For this, I used all three. I put spackle over the surface to make it flat. To fill in gaps and cover the joins between the ramp and the foam, I used paper mache.

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The ladder on the backside is just bent florists wire, stuck into the foam.

The brickwork is easy to do, and looks great once it’s painted. First, I covered the foam with spackle and let that dry.

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Then, I took a Dremel tool, and carved in the shapes of the bricks. Finally, I sanded it down to remove the texture and any rough edges.

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I did this on the top and the sides of the big base.

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Finally, to make the pink foam look more distressed, I airbrushed Acetone onto it. The Harbor Freight airbrush lets me spray a little or a lot, and since the acetone dissolves the foam, I could slowly distress it further if I wanted.

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The next part of the building I made out of foamcore. I used cereal box cardboard for the edges. To do the textured plaster, I stippled the surface with an old paintbrush before it dried.

The framing around the upper window is more pink insulation foam. You can also see how I used spackle to fill in the inside of the windows, so you couldn’t see the seam and the exposed foam.

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Finally, the building needs a roof. I used the thick black plasticard to make the basic structure, then cereal box cardboard to do both the wooden planks on the ends, and the shingles. The shingles look a lot more complicated than they are.

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Test fit everything to make sure it looks good.

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Next, I wanted to even up some areas, cover some seams, and make sure the distressed areas looked good and busted up. So I glued sand onto certain places, and let it dry.

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After that, it was just a simple matter of painting. I used an airbrush to apply the base coats, and did so in several layers, lightening and darkening the color with each layer so it wasn’t a smooth perfect shade. Some thin black paint made a perfect wash, then a little drybrushing to highlight. The final step was gluing on the flocking, then some dullcote for protection.

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How to Use Fast Cavalry

by MunchChomp - August 24th, 2009

I was surfing the net earlier (was checking my Worldwide Warhammer Ranking) and noticed that some of you philistines were asking about Fast Cavalry and how to use them. Well, I’ve managed to carve out a little time in between my workout sessions, Fantasy tournaments, and nightclubbing to put together some advice for you nooblets. You’re welcome.

My first and most important lesson for you is redirecting with Fast Cavalry. The first question that should have entered your tiny brains is: why use Fast Cavalry for redirecting?

Answer:

  • Fast Cavalry are (you guessed it) fast. This includes their ability to Reform as often as they want during their normal movement. These ‘free’ Reforms can be used to create disadvantageous angles for your opponent’s units.
  • They have Feigned Flight. This means that they can rally after voluntarily choosing to Flee from an enemy charge and move as normal in their following turn.
  • They’re usually cheap. If something goes wrong, you can afford to lose them.

Just look at this:

FC1

The yellow unit of Fast Cavalry have placed themselves in front of a problematic enemy unit. They do this because they want to both slow down the blue unit AND change their facing. Also note that if the blue unit wanted to charge something they now cannot, and are left with the option of charging the Fast Cavalry (diverting them) or sitting still.

FC2

Our blue unit has chosen to charge their harassers. Of course, the yellow (bellied) unit chooses to flee, so they are moved first. They must be moved in a line relative to the center of both units.

FC3

The charging unit must move towards their target. They don’t reach them with their short movement, so shuffle forward at half their charge distance.

As with most brilliant tactical maneuvers, there are risks involved:

The unit of Fast Cavalry may be caught by their chargers. In reality, this only happens if the Fast Cavalry roll abysmally low for their flight move. Due to the fact that in the glorious 7th Edition of Warhammer Fantasy fleeing units are pivoted on the spot and then moved, the distance between units can be exaggerated when the pursuing unit is forced to wheel towards the fleeing unit.

Panic! The fleeing Fast Cavalry unit could cause Panic in friendly units given its Unit Strength of > 5. This is easy to circumvent most of the time, just plan for the flight path of the redirecting unit.

And if that wasn’t enough for you, this is how you redirect an enemy unit to turn a bad situation into a good one!

In this highly hypothetical situation, I’ve added another nice yellow unit. They are men holding pointy sticks that don’t like to get charged.

FC4

Our brave unit of Fast Cavalry has jumped in the way of the menacing blue unit before it crashes into its target. Wheeling around the unit of Fast Cavalry will take up too much of their movement during a charge, forcing them to take another line of action.

FC5
FC6

The blue unit charges the yellow Fast Cav, wheeling towards them as before. The extended shadowy zone shows where the unit would continue had they moved their full charge distance. This is important to know, because if the unit of yellow infantry were in this area, the blue unit could have declared Enemy in the Way on them and charged them as well.

FC7

Thanks to careful planning, the blue unit cannot reach either of their targets, and so is stuck in the open. They have also left their flank open to the yellow infantry. Success!

Obviously, this situation isn’t entirely realistic, but it does show how you can actually use your brain and the longwinded movement rules for Fantasy (as opposed to the ‘move wherever within 6″ rule’) to outplay your opponent. It’s a great answer to your enemy’s hammer units that rely on getting into combat earn their keep. Although this stuff may seem simple, only the better players actually manage to pull these kinds of moves off successfully with any consistency.

If the two of you that read this out there (hi mom!) want more of this kind of stuff, let me know. I can show off other nifty tactics like the ‘Skirmish Skedaddle’ and the ‘Hated Hold’ as well as ways to defeat them in future posts.

What to play in Dark Heresy, and how to play it: Part Two

by Danger - Octopus! - August 20th, 2009

DH01
Following on from my previous article, I’ve covered the most basic careers (Assassin, Guardsman & Scum) and move onto the next three: Adept, Arbitrator and Cleric.

These careers are where things start to become more complex and, seemingly, difficult to play without a good grounding in the 40k universe and/or roleplaying.  Even a long-time fan of the 40k wargame could struggle, since taking the role of a zealous member of the Ecclesiarchy is rather different to moving that squad of Space Marines out of cover and flaming some greenskins.

However,  these three careers can easily be made more simple by thinking of them in more familiar terms, rather than as part of the 40k mythos.  Some players will no doubt be fine and able to come up with character concepts that fit the universe and into the Dark Heresy game, but others will hopefully find these articles helpful!

Adept

The Adept is an interesting class, since you can do so much with it.  While it might seem that playing a learned academic would need the kind of background knowledge that would necessitate decades of poring over game rulebooks and back issues of White Dwarf, it’s really not the case.  The crucial fact to remember is that 40k is a very medieval universe, and the Adept is all about specialisation, as far as gameplay goes.

In game terms, the adept will start with some vague general knowledge and end up with much more detailed knowledge about specific aspects of the Imperium.  However, for roleplaying purposes, you can just make it up.  When the game calls for your knowledge you can make a skill roll, but the rest of the time?  Your adept can be filled with the arcane knowledge of millenia past, so the knowledge you roleplay him as having doesn’t need to have any relevance to the Imperium of the 41st Millenium.

cadfael1Often, the Adept will lead an existence like that of a medieval monk, but one who has stumbled into intrigue much like Cadfael; he could be a logician skilled in ancient machines with all the eccentricities that this entails such as someone from Hackers or Whistler from Sneakers.

A great concept for an Adept is someone much more at home in their cloistered existence, who relies on someone else to take care of all the details like gunfights, monsters and car chases.  Marcus Brody from the Indiana Jones series, or any nervy computer nerd comic relief from a big blockbuster action movie, like Boris Grishenko.

Anyone familiar with Call of Cthulhu could easily transplant a twitchy researcher who has Learned Things Man Was Not Meant To Know. If you envisage your adept spending time as a Chirurgeon then any of the dour pathologists from police shows such as CSI or Morse would be suitable inspiration for a concept, or rather more sinister medical students recruited by an Inquisitor wanting to use their skills and also to keep a close watch on them.

Arbitrator

As with the Adept, it’s easily possibly to play a representative of Imperial law without having a lot of knowledge of the details of it.  Specifically, the remit of the Arbitrator is to investigate crimes against the Imperium, witchcraft and corruption… which you can easily pick up ideas about from the main rulebook without needing to know about smaller petty crimes and the ins and outs of Imperial law.
judge_dredd
The original inspiration for GW’s Arbitrators is pretty clearly Judge Dredd , but there are plenty of other concepts for the Arbitrator player.   Whether you’re wanting to borrow from The Wire (a low-ranking Arbitrator, picked by an Inquisitor perhaps because he’s above the usual corruption, or as part of some political game going on in the high echelons of the Imperial bureaucracy), CSI (in the same way that the characters in CSI all seem mysteriously competent at every last aspect of police work, the Arbitrator fills the roles of beat cop, investigator, SWAT team and indeed judge) or even The Sweeney for a rough-edged Arbitrator who is keen on violence to get the job done and would shoot you if you even tried to bribe him.

A more thoughtful Arbitrator who tried to avoid the violence and leave it to others could end up being like Inspector Morse, whilst The Shield could serve as inspiration for the Arbitrator a little more keen on violence.

Whilst the description of the Arbitrator definitely leads towards the more muscle-bound investigator, it’s a simple matter of picking skills carefully to end up with someone more at home in Law & Order than the fast-paced glitz of the original Miami Vice or the more gritty and violent remake and you could even end up taking a more hard-bitten film noir style take on the Arbitrator.

Cleric

The Cleric is a great opportunity to really have fun in the 41st millenium.  To paraphrase Douglas Adams – the thing about the Imperium is, it’s big.  Really big.  A Cleric character needs to follow the Emperor in some form. That’s really it.  You can worship the Emperor as sun-god, as some kind of battle deity, as an all-knowing architect and creator – there are endless variants of the Imperial Cult and options for making up your own obscure sub-sect.  There is a lot of crossover with the Adept if you’re playing a more sedate priest, so concepts from there are equally applicable, but then there are roles only really suitable for a Cleric.

There are rabble rousers dedicated to rooting out evil in all its forms like Frollo in Hunchback of Notre Dame or any of the many portrayals of the Spanish Inquisition as well as messianic priests, particularly one of the more muscular persuasion who leads with sword and flame.  The obvious inspiration would be Joan of Arc or indeed any charismatic leader.  Think of Henry V inspiring his troops with Kenneth Branagh’s great oratory or military pep talks.  Crusader knights, as in Kingdom of Heaven are a key inspiration, or for the more politically oriented priests, think of Cardinal Richelieu in the Three Musketeers or the Machiavellian machinations of the Vatican during the Middle Ages.
main

Borrowing from pop-culture depictions of mystic rituals, whether Masons, Kabbalah or even the supposed extremes of Catholicism all make for starting points for a 40k Cleric.  As with the Adept, you can make up a lot of what your character knows and believes in, since the Imperium is large enough that anything someone could believe or study is out there somewhere!

Whether trying to play an honest priest caught up in events bigger than him, or someone trying to be a great leader of men who wants to sacrifice themselves for the cause, Cleric has many options and enough available skills that it’s easy to specialise while keeping it different enough from the other combat careers and even focusing entirely on the study and oratory, if your play style runs that way.  Some of the later advances even allow for crossing over with some of the specialised aspects of combat, so you could aim to make a warrior monk, as seen in endless Kung Fu films.

In the third part of this series, I’ll cover the three careers that in my opinion can come across as the most difficult to play, particularly without an in-depth knowledge of the background – Imperial Psyker, Tech-Priest and Sister of Battle.

PaintVagrant’s Chaplain tutorial

by PaintVagrant - August 19th, 2009

Our ol’ buddy PaintVagrant’s got another ass-kicking painting tutorial for us again, this time it’s a Chaplain he painted for a commission.

Before

After

Wanna see how it’s done? Of course you do.

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Forum Feature: Fully Painted Armies

by ImJasonH - August 13th, 2009

A completed, fully painted (and well-painted) army is a beautiful thing to behold, a unique snowflake made of dedication and antisocial isolation.

Anyone badass enough to actually own an entire army, painted, complete, should show it off at every opportunity. They should get t-shirts made up. They should have pictures of them sent out as Christmas cards. Pictures of your completed armies should be framed and placed in front of pictures of your children and loved ones.

Well, maybe that’s a bit much, but they should at least post pictures of that shit in the Eternity of War forums.

But you’ll have to beat these impressive contributions, or else everyone will just laugh at you. (click to enlarge)

A Gross Bug's Tyranids

A Gross Bug's Tyranids

Playa's Chaos Space Marines

Playa's Chaos Space Marines

Gorgeous.

If you have some pictures of your own, feel free to lay the smack down on these chumps by posting them. And if not, close your browser and get your lazy ass back to your painting table!

Forum Feature: BATTLESHOTS

by ImJasonH - August 10th, 2009

The Eternity of War Forums have some incredibly talented painters and modelers. But what they also have are some pretty damn proficient photographers. Don’t believe me? Just take a look at what lurks in the BATTLESHOTS thread.

Too lazy to click on a link? Don’t worry, I’ll just blow your socks off from right here. Click to enlarge

Alpha Legionnaires taking cover behind a Rhino

Alpha Legionnaires taking cover behind a Rhino

FUCK YOUUUU

FUCK YOUUUU

The Bouncer catches a Rhino by surprise!

The Bouncer catches a Rhino by surprise!

Marbo waits to drop his demo charge

Marbo waits to drop his demo charge

All of these, and many more, await you in the BATTLESHOTS thread. So what are you waiting for, maggot, get a move on!

Oh yeah, and if you have any of your own, post that shit so we can think you’re awesome.

Thanks to forum posters A Gross Bug and Syphilis for posting the images you see above.

Mathhammer 101: Kills per Point, Tyranids Edition

by ImJasonH - July 30th, 2009

eng101 big
In my previous installment of Mathhammer 101, I explained a method of getting the most effective army for the least money. In those calculations, points were used as the sole measure of effectiveness. Of course, anyone who’s been around the wargaming block knows that points are an imperfect measure of effectiveness. Dozens of models lie unused at the bottom of a carrying case because they’re “not worth its points.”

The problem is, points are only roughly related to effectiveness, and even “effectiveness” itself is a slippery term. A 100 pt model is not always twice as effective as a 50 pt model (for some definition of “effectiveness”). An upgrade that costs 10 pts does not always make you 10 pts-worth more effective.

To try to at least roughly decide whether a model or upgrade is “worth its points”, you can calculate its kills per point, or kpp.

This is calculated by figuring out how likely it is to kill an enemy model, divided by how many points it costs. Doing this for a variety of units or upgrade permutations can give you a guideline for which units or upgrades are “worth it” and which “aren’t.”
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